What Do the X’s Mean on Cowboy Hat?

Cowboy hats are elegant and stylish accessories that are still popular worldwide.

If you want to buy a new cowboy hat, you must have come across the X rating system. Most hat manufacturers use this system to indicate the quality of the hats. But for a hat novice, this can be a bit confusing. 

A higher X rating doesn’t always mean better quality. Also, there is no proper benchmark for labeling the quality of a cowboy hat, which complicates things.

So what does the X rating mean, and how do you select the best quality hat? 

Keep reading to find out.

What is the X rating for cowboy hats?

The X marking on a cowboy hat denotes the hat quality. Initially, the X rating scheme went from just 1X to 10X, with 10X hats having the highest quality. 

But now, hat makers have embraced their own rating systems. 

Some brands rate hats up to 1,000X, and some hat makers concentrate more on the quality of the hat band and other adornments rather than the hat itself. 

What does 10X mean in cowboy hats?

Years ago, 10X was the highest rating a cowboy hat could have. A 10X cowboy hat would be made exclusively with beaver fur and sold at 100 USD or higher. Beaver fur made the best cowboy hats. Cowboy hats made with beaver fur were thin, light, durable, and water-resistant. 

Today, the rating system goes much further than 10X. But this doesn’t mean that a 100X hat today is better than a 10X hat from 50 years ago.

You must also remember that the XS rating system is not conclusive. This means that a 10X hat from one manufacturer is not the same quality as a 10X hat from another. 

Cowboy hat quality chart

The cowboy hat quality and XS change from one manufacturer to the next. So it’s challenging to come up with a quality chart. Here’s an overview of Stetson cowboy hats’ X rating and quality.

XS	Quality
4X	Mostly wool
6X	Felt blend
10X	Premium beaver blend
30X	High quality felt
500X Straw	High-quality straw

What does the X mean in a Stetson hat?

When it comes to Stetson hats, the X is determined by the quality of the hat body. Both felt, and straw hats have an X rating. Stetson was the company that introduced cowboy hats, and they always strive for quality. 

The fur percentage in the hat body specifies the XS in felt hats. Stetson hats use fur from beavers, chinchillas, and mink. Cowboy hats with a higher ratio of beaver fur have a higher X rating.

For straw hats, the straw size and weave determine the X rating. Hats with narrow straw and a denser weave have a higher X rating.

What do the XS mean on straw hats?

The X rating system started with felt hats, but now straw hats have an X rating. Like with felt cowboy, a higher X rating indicates a better quality hat.

Popular straw hats like Panama and cowboy straw hats are rated with X. The fineness of the straw and the denseness of the weave determine the XS. 

High-quality straw hats are made with fine straw. They have a dense weave, are lighter, and are more comfortable, all of which make the hat more robust and flexible. 

What do the XS in a cowboy hat mean?

The XS on a cowboy hat indicates its overall quality, including the material and design. 

Initially, the XS in a cowboy hat was simple and easy to understand. All cowboy hats were rated from 1X to 10X, with 10X being the highest quality. The XS number shows how much fur felt is used to make the hat. Generally, cowboy hats below 5X had little to no beaver fur, whereas a 10X hat was 100% beaver fur. 

The XS also indicated the price of a cowboy hat. For example, a 5X cowboy hat was around 50 USD, while a 100X hat was around 100 USD. 

Today, however, the rating varies from one hat maker to another. But typically, you can differentiate between low-quality and high-quality hats from the look and feel. A hat with a low X rating would feel rough, while a hat with a high X rating would feel silky and soft. 

How should you choose a quality cowboy hat?

The quality of the cowboy hat you want depends on many factors, like how often you plan on wearing the hat and how much you are willing to spend. As always, good cowboy hats don’t come cheap.

Also, use your senses and ask a lot of questions. You are free to question the hat maker on how they grade their hats and the materials they use. 

Here’s what you must look out for when selecting a high-quality cowboy hat.

• The X rating: The more XS, the higher the quality of the hat. But this rating system is only applicable when comparing cowboy hats from the same manufacturer.

• Brand: Few brands still dominate the cowboy hat industry. If you want to purchase a high-quality hat, look for a brand with a good reputation. Stetson hats, the original maker of cowboy hats, is still producing high-quality hats. Resistol is another well-reputed brand.

• Material: You can find cowboy hats made with felt, straw, or leather. Straw hats are the cheapest option. Felt and leather hats are of a higher quality. Both felt, and leather hats are expensive and require good maintenance and care. 

• Look and feel: Sometimes, the look and feel of a hat can tell much more than the X system. Always touch and feel the hats if you visit a hat store in person. It’s pretty easy to distinguish between low quality and a high-quality hat.

• Country of origin: Cowboys hats originated in the US, and even today, authentic cowboy hats come from the US. Always check for a made-in-the-USA label if you want to purchase a high-quality hat. The market is saturated with cheap hats from other countries. 

Final Thoughts

Today, the X rating system is subjective because hat dealers and manufacturers use individual criteria to grade their hats. Still, the X-factor rating is an excellent way to compare cowboy hats from the same manufacturer. 

If you have questions about a cowboy hat, the best option would be to get in touch with the manufacturer and clear all your doubts.  

After all, a high-quality cowboy hat is a long-term investment, so choose wisely.